I never found the exact reason why Julie and I decided to travel to Ethiopia. I'd heard about the country second handbut I'd never actually thought about visiting. Julie and I
first looked at going to the Kenya coast but flights were more expensive than we expected. The cheapest flight flew through Addis Ababa so we decided to stop short of Kenya and spend our holiday in Ethiopia. After we chose to visit, we pieced together our trip at the semi-last minute. This last minute nature of the trip along with such a short flight (instead of the day of traveling from the US) and the fact that we weren't doing "typically African" things, it never quite clicked that I was going to an African country. This led to a rude awakening upon arrival. Flying into Addis Ababa, the city sprawled for miles in ever direction--and these were just the places that were lit up.
The next morning we woke up in our hotel dear the Piazza to the smells that couldn't be ignored--car exhaust, dust, and most potently, burning grass. That day we wandered around looking for and (gradually) finding St. George Cathedral, the Ethnological Museum at Addis Ababa University, and the National Museum and never finding the Holy Trinity Cathedral. The church and museums were good introductions to Ethiopian history and culture and the idiosyncrasies of Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. It was also our first exposure to Ethiopians (or the government-funded museums) telling their own history, on their own terms. In doing so, this re-telling is an act to give their country's history and identity worth not necessarily against the colonizer/occupier/the West but alongside it and in opposition to it. This re-telling of the country's past was an important part of every place we visited on our trip. At St. George Cathedral, for instance, renowned Ethiopian artist Afewerk Tekle re-painted the inside of the church after the original paintings were destroyed by the Italians in the 1930s. The current paintings show a medley of icons ranging from the Hebrew Bible and Christ's life to Ethiopian saints and Hallie Sellasie's coronation ceremony. Without too far a stretch of the imagination, this can be interpreted symbolically as the perseverance and preservation of Ethiopian autonomy and identity in the face of an occupying force, a layering of the new on top of the past that is not always a positive force in Ethiopia.
The top floor of the Ethnological Museum displayed tons of panels, crosses, and other religious paraphernalia from the 14th and 15th century to present.
It was really neat to see all of the different stages of development, the continuity and changes in style and their, and their similarities with other Christian devotional artwork (especially Spanish Colonial...). My favorite and the most graphic was a hinged-panel painting suggesting all of spiritual deaths suffered by St. George, including beheading, a spear running from his bowels through his head, being burned alive, and being drowned.
In walking around town (and getting lost) between these different museums was the growing feeling that any glorified image of Africa that I had was now utterly absent. Any abstractions that I created for myself or hopes I had for the continent (as much as it can be seen as a whole) were immediately nullified. As I mentioned earlier, more than anything else, it was the smell along with the chaos that was Addis Ababa that caused such disillusion. From my final South African experiences in the green ocean-cliffs along the picturesque Transkei, this sprawling city was a slap in the face for my first experience in Africa since then. It was also my first real exposure to that type of urban environment where slum housing and modern buildings are side by side. On one street would be a row of shops with cafes, jewelers, and clothing shops and on the next street over is an community built by squatters. The disheartening feeling that accompanied our walk maintained the grim reminder of the extent of how systematic development effort have severely failed the majority of the people (and will continue to do so). This pessimism was in stark contrast to my feeling when I left South Africa that there were real things that could be done to improve the lot of the masses and minimize the poverty and inequality that plagued the continent. These feelings provided the initial context for our trip around northern Ethiopia along the historical circuit.
We did the circuit backwards from most people, making a small triangle given around Lalibela, Bahir Dar, and Gonder (and Debark and the Simien Mountains from there). Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to visit further north to Aksum or Tigray's rock-hewn churches and monasteries. Lalibela is a small mountain town of a little over 10,000 people. It is famous for its 11 rock-hewn churches built in the 12th and 13th century. Under the possibilities and pressures of increased tourism, the town has grown drastically in the past few years. People from the surrounding areas have been moving to this town in hopes of a better life from the arid and frequently drought-ridden countryside. Before describing the churches in more detail I want to pause for a brief summary of Ethiopia's society and history.
Ethiopia's History
Under Hallie Sellasie's sometimes autocratic leadership, Ethiopia developed a nationalism that is unlike any other African country. Whereas most 20th century African leaders attempted to impose nationalism in hopes of unifying ethnically and linguistically diverse peoples, Ethiopia actually succeeded. This fact could be attributed to the roots for a national identity in the earlier monarchy, Sellasie's leadership, the language and stories that were historically a part of the country's history. Whatever the case, this national pride is shown most uniquely by the fact that we saw so many Ethiopians wearing shirts about their country, the types of shirts that are usually seen worn by tourists and locals would not be seen wearing elsewhere. Underneath this pride lies the grim realities of overpopulation, deforestation, desertification, and, most devastatingly, governmental mismanagement of the countries resources.
Most Ethiopians (especially the Orthodox Christians) trace much of their history to an affair between King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. Later in life, their son--King Menelik I-- returned to see his father in Jerusalem. Upon returning to Ethiopia, he covertly took the Ark of the Covenant--where it has remained to this day. Although the dynastic rule is traced from Menelik, it was not until around 400 BC that the kingdom of Aksum emerged in Ethiopia. The Aksumites remained an important power due to their strategic location at the crux of African and MIddle Eastern trade routes of the time. They also excelled technologically and artistically, with their most impressive development being their stonemasonry skills. Although Ethiopians trace the origin of Christianity to the time of the apostles, it most likely arrived in the 4th century and spread quickly thereafter. With the arrival of Islam, trade routes shifted to the ocean or further north. Lacking its strategic location, Aksum declined and Ethiopia entered a period of decline. Amidst growing threats from the Muslim world, the Ethiopian priests and monks cloistered themselves in the mountains, protecting Christian relics (and creating many new ones in isolated churches and monasteries. The Orthodox churches' rituals and identity was solidified in the remote setting. In the twelfth century, the Zagwe dynasty rose to power. Besides the churches that they built in Lalibela, there were no other relics that they left (a fact which adds to the mystery and allure of the churches to this day). In 1270, the were overthrown by Yekuno Amlak who claimed to be a descendent of King Menelik I. Ushering (or re-ushering) in the "Solomonic dynasty," he established a rulership that would last until Hallie Sellasie. They also produced an astonishing amount of art and literature--including the Kebra Negest, Ethiopia's national epic which solidifies the country's religious feelings, most importantly the affair between the Queen of Sheba and Solomon. Beginning in the late 15th century, war broke out between Muslims from the east of Ethiopia and this Christian monarchy. During this period even more of the country's artwork was preserved in isolated churches and monasteries. For the next few centuries the capital city of the empire also bounced around throughout western and southern Ethiopia. The first permanent capital was not established until 1636 in Gonder. Even though there was not much stability for the state, a generous patronage between the church and state led to an immense output of art, churches (including the Debre Berhan Selassie which I'll talk about later) and monasteries (such as those of Lake Tana). Throughout this period the country was also very closed to Europeans.
It was not until the opening of the Suez Canal that Ethiopia gained any strategic value. The Italians initially colonized what is now Eritrea and were only nominally involved in Ethiopian affairs. Ethiopia gradually modernized and was even admitted into the League of Nations under Ras Tafari's (later Haile Selassie) vocal involvement in international affairs. Emporor Selassie took the throne in 1930 and further centralized the government and country. The Italians invaded in 1935 without any contention from the international community--fearing that it would further push Mussolini into Hitler's camp. It was not until 1940 when Italy declared war against Britain that Italy's occupation was halted. Development was slow after the war and discontent gradually increased until 1974 when Emporor Selassie was overthrown and replaced by the Derg who declared Ethiopia a socialist state. Any dissension was repressed and hundreds of thousands were killed and thousands fled abroad. The 1984-1985 drought and failed communal farms all contributed to the infamous famines faced by the country. Currently, most stories I heard about the government pertained to its increasing inefficiency and increasingly autocratic rule. However, these issues seemed pretty removed from many of the people living in this large country.
Lalibela
Considering Ethiopia's size and diversity, we saw a relatively small portion of the country, even if it was separated by the towns were separated by the rugged Ethiopian Highlands. This fact left an obviously slanted view of Ethiopian history that neglects the large Muslim presence in eastern Ethiopia and the more "traditionally African" towns
in the south. Nevertheless, it did leave me with a broader and more nuanced view of "Africa" and Christianity. Lalibela is probably the most famous place for Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. Since no local or external records exist that mention Lalibela besides the churches themselves, much mystery shrouds these amazing churches. This has also enabled several local legends about the churches to arise about their construction. Our guide told us that King Lalibela travelled (or was transported) to
Jerusalem and was intrigued by the buildings of the holy city. Since it was a difficult journey to Jerusalem, he vowed to create a new holy city in a mountain village that was then known as Roha (including Calvary, the Tomb of Adam, and the River Jordan). Under God's guidance and direction, King
Lalibela carved every church from the sandstone all by himself. The other local story I heard was that once laborers completed their work for the day angels would take over and work by night. What was most interesting about this telling of Lalibela's history is not what they say about, but what is not said. Our guide mentioned how the churches were built--that
the outside of the churches were carved out, then the stone from the inside was removed before, and lastly paintings and other decorations were added to the churches.
However, there was no mention of the modern estimates that it would have taken 40,000 workers to complete such an architectural undertaking in such a short period.
There was no mention of political situation and the Zagwe dynasties attempts to prove their continuation of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church and legitimize their rule. All that was mentioned was King Lalibela's spiritual motivations for the churches' construction. Since they (the priests, guides, local tourism bureau, etc.) determine what is said about the church, they shape their own ongoing history. And, in our case, it was anything but a passive narration. Our guide's eye would light up when he told the stories about the churches design, its artwork, or the saints depicted in the different artwork (which was spectacular to see in situo).
The traditions that he explained for us are not something of the past. They are constantly renewed and struggling with change, like traditions of the world always have. Traditions are not something simply passed down from father to son, from one generation to another. The attempts at preserving the past amidst change are filled with with discord and friction, conflict and strife. In another light, Lalibela is a poor mountain town that has been blessed with these world-renowned churches. As Ethiopia develops its tourism industry in the face of increasing demand, Lalibela is one of the first to capitalize on the new-found wealth that is brought into town. However, the sudden influx of wealth (especially given the city's history) is drastically altering the social fabric of the society. Many people are coming from mountain villages in search of work.
Our guide talked about how the size of the school has grown over six times since he graduated a little over ten years ago. As children (and their families) desire to earn a part of this newfound wealth, fewer and fewer students are entering the religious schools with its modest wages and humble way of life.
In the churches, the priests who show the ceremonial crosses to tourists, now have sunglasses in for the unfortunate amateur photographers who use their flash in the dimly lit churches--even after numerous pleas and warnings not to do so. Like most religious communities, Lalibela is struggling with the question of what to do with local traditions amidst the realities of a globalizing world.
For now, from the brief time that we spent in town, it seems that they are responding the way that many religious communities respond, to assert the authority of their tradition and their presentation of them. While this seems like a overly defensive approach to one's past, it is making a case for their history's unique value and worth in the face of hegemonic global forces that do risk undermining it (as can be detected by the decreasing interest in religious vocation).
Gonder and the Simien Mounatins
After a few days in Lalibela, we flew northwest to Gonder. Arriving on the largest religious festival of the year without a hotel or a ride from the airport, we were unsure what exactly we were going to do in Gonder. We got everything sorted out just in time for the parade. Timkat celebrates Jesus' baptism as people reaffirm their baptismal commitments. The ritual takes on increased significance when you consider the role of water of Ethiopian society. With a large population and a frequently harsh dry season, the importance of water is all to evident. In addition to its religious and spiritual significance for religious believers, from the outside, the ritual seems to affirm one's commitment to and dependence on God amidst the contingencies of life and assert their dependence on God as Provider. Timkat is also the only day where the model Ark of the Covenant (that each church has) is removed from the Holy of Holies in the center of the church and put on display for the entire community to see it--albeit draped in decorated cloth.
The parade was the first parade that I had every been to outside the US. Unlike parades at home that are regulated with a clear time that it should start and stop, this parade ran at a very meandering pace. Sitting on the stairs in the middle of town, we could see the priests and bishop under their umbrellas in front of the Royal Enclosure (about 3/4 of a kilometer away). However, it took nearly an hour for them to arrive to where we were sitting. The parade was led
by different groups of male students who would briskly run as they were signing, dancing, and blowing on horns. After singing their way down the street, they would turn around and repeat the same routine. Next were other groups walking and singing at the same pace as the priests. Lastly, the priests walked by under their highly decorated umbrellas, chanting (that would continue throughout the night). My favorite umbrella was purple with different devotional pictures of Jesus sewn onto it. After they passed by us, they made their way to Fasiladas' Bath, constructed in the late 17th century (and just recently remodeled by the Norwegian government). It is now filled once a year for the Timkat celebration. The parade's unfortunate aspect was the amount of disrespectful tourists. There were people with their cameras and videocameras getting in the middle of the parade to get the perfect picture or video. Partially because of this crowd following the parade and partially to get some mango juice, we did not follow the parade to the Bath. Talking to other hikers a few days later, I was told that once the parade arrived at the Bath, all Ethiopians were kicked out, leaving only the priests and their following of tourists. That night we rested in the hotel, waiting to take off early the next morning for the Simien Mountains. The apogee of Timkat is the communal baptism in the morning. The Bath, I heard, fills up with people swimming, splashing, and spraying water all over the place. We avoided this wild affair and had the fortunate opportunity to see several communities celebrating Timkat as we went to Debark, to get ready for or trek into the Simiens. Every village we drove by had groups of people dressed in their ceremonially white gathered around a water or some other pool.
Once we arrived in Debark our expectations proved true that there wasn't much there besides the Park Headquarters for the Simien Mountains, a few hotels, and one main street with an assortment of shops. We spent the morning relaxing in the sun at our hotel. planning our trip into the mountains. That afternoon we planned a four-day 80 km (49 mile) trek into the mountains. To cut the costs, we decided to go with George (who was oddly enough from Kutna Hora, the city with the church with all of the bones). While most people take an English-speaking guide as well as the compulsory armed scout, we just went with Mamaro, our scout and two "mulehandlers" with the horses that carried our gear. Luckily, they took a different path than us so we weren't too much of a caravan going up the mountain. The first day we left from Debark around 7:45, walking 23 km (14 miles) from Debark to Sankaber. Unfortunately, Julie nor I thought that seriously about the elevation, starting at around 2600 meters (8580 feet) and moving up to 3960 meters (about 13,000 feet). Mamaro, our quick-footed guide didn't make it any easier either. The first part of the hike was difficult for Julie and myself as we trekked through undulating hills and valleys until we reached the escarpment.
Our first view of the mountains also brought us to our first group of about 40 gelada baboons. We walked right through the middle of the group as they ate grass, groomed each other, and occasionally talked (only once in alarm for the ten minutes that we were there). The hike for the rest of the day was more scenic (and difficult, gaining most of the elevation). Whenever we reached the top of the hill for a rest, our scout would say "Neat," meaning "Let's go" in Amharic. Before the camp, was one of the best lookouts across the mountains to the west. The Simiens were really like no mountains I've ever seen in my life. Although lacking the tints of red, the mountains were more dramatic than parts of the Grand Canyon. There were a few lucky cases where we could see the mountains on both sides of us, as if we were on a peninsula of rock over the descending peaks, valleys, and rock formations below. On the escarpment, there were spots that dropped thousands of feet as smaller peaks that went on for miles.
The hills were still green in some spots but had mostly turned to brown since the rainy season ended a few months earlier. The pictures will explain it better but it was one of the most dramatic mountain ranges I have ever seen.
After our first day of hiking, Julie and I made the decision that she would head back to Debark the next day while I kept going to Imet Gogo. She (and many others as I soon found out) were unable to accilamte quick enough. The hiking was not that difficult but at that elevation it was much more difficult than expected. The next morning she took a bus back to Debark with a group of raucous German tourists. Though not as enjoyable, Mamaro, George, and I set off to Geech Camp, 12 km (7.5 miles).
The day had a great start through the trees along the cliff's edge before we reached the tree line. The rest of the day was hot, dusty, and steep. We passed through a canyon with a nice stream and the surprisingly large Geech Village before arriving at camp in the early afternoon. After a cold night, we continued up to Imet Gogo, the final peak at 3960 meters). Imet Gogo is said to have the most spectacular views in the mounatins, a 360 degree view. To the northeast were the other side of the mountains leading towards Ras Dashen (Ethiopia's highest peak).
The northwest brought remarkable views including the most famous peaks in the park. Behind me to the southeast were the mounatins leading all the way to the small mountain that was barely visible above Debark (around 40 kms away). I did feel very fortunate for getting to be in the mountains. It was one of the most special (and peaceful) parts of the trip. The last night in the mountains I was playing solitaire when Mamaro, another scout, and a couple of the mulehandlers came in to play. After watching them play a few games it was fun to play. I quickly learned all of the rules except for for saying the numbers and names of the cards in Amharic as I put them down.
Being called faranji seemed less harsh (and maybe even more endearing...) than the usual tone it took on. The other highlight of the trip was passing through villages along the way. It really was remote where we were hiking. Besides a few who have become involved in services for hikers (cooking, selling food, or, my personal favorite, renting out a dorm that the Japanese government built for locals at Geech but they never used), it was all subsistence living. The most heartbreaking part was a boy asking for medicine for his shin that had a gash that had started to rot. It was an awful feeling of helplessness.
Unfortunately, a sick joke was started against me as the common shower in the hotel had no water. In Gonder, the joke was continued that night when first the water and then the power went out in the hotel. 
Luckily, I got a shower before the water ran out the next morning. Our afternoon in Gonder was nice without as many people as during Timkat. The highlight was the 18th century Debre Berhan Selassie Church. This vibrantly decorated church was contained inside two courtyards on a hill overlooking town. The walls were coated with religious
paintings on animal hides that were plastered on every wall throughout the church. These highly elaborate paintings had the usual depictions of the life of Christ and Ethiopian saints.
The more unique (and odd) images of this church were a monster-like rendition of the Devil and Satan leading the Prophet Muhammed on a mule. Although the were truly captivating the 107 cherub faces on the ceiling were spectacular.
After walking down the hill from the church, we went to the Royal Enclosure.
Gonder was the capital of Ethiopia from the 17th century until it was moved to Addis Ababa in the late 19th century. It is believed that the castle was built by an Indian architect but it melds Portuguese, Moorish, and Aksumite arhictecture throughout the grounds. Fasiladas' Palace--the most restored building on the grounds--has arched Moorish archways, the Star of David above each doorway (to assert their link with the Solomonic dynasty), and windows with views to each of Gonder's important churches.
The rest of the castle grounds were filled with kitchen, cisterns, a banquest hall, a library, a Lion house, and a Turkish bath (all in different states of disrepair after Sudanes Dervishes raiding in the 1880s and British bombings in 1941.
Even though it felt totally normal to be walking throughout a 17th century African castle, it is a bit odd thinking that it is there in the first place. The Sunday afternoon was also a nice time to take it easy and walk around the beautiful Enclosure. Flying overhead the entire time were Tawny eagles. It seemed like their entire mating seasons was sqeeezed into that afternoon. We counted at least 13 eagles at one time, and probably saw five times that as they were looking anxiously looking for a mate (To give a little more detail, this eagle would fly at very low levels in Debark and each camp I stayed at in the Simiens.
They would continuously ride the air currents immediately overheard, rarely flapping their wings. I would be sitting there and the eagle would appear out of nowhere. Just as quickly, it would disappear. Overall, it was the most ominous and mysterious bird I have ever seen. The eagle made Debark and the Simiens feel as if they were setting the tone for a Cormac McCarthy novel).
Bahir Dar
After our day in Gonder we took a minibus down to Bahir Dar for a few relaxing days before heading home. Most days we spent relaxing in the garden of our hotel by Lake Tana.
Besides a few trips to explore town, we took a boat trip out to some of the monasteries on Lake Tana.
When Ethiopia's Orthodox Christians began building churches and monasteries in the mountain to protect ancient religious relics, they did the same thing in Lake Tana. While none of the original churches or shrines remain, the current ones were built by some of the early Gonder rulers in an attempt to demonstrate (or prove) their piety. In addition to protecting church relics, the monasteries also provided a place for monks to isolate themselves. This practice continues to this day with the 74 monks that still reside on the various monasteries throughout the islands (and a few more on land to procure donations and help bring food and other goods to the islands). The first two monasteries were on the Zege Peninsula. From the dock, we walked for about ten minutes through the coffee and papaya trees (and stalls selling the various religious iconography and other Ethiopian tourist kitsch) to the Ura Kidane Meret monastery compound.
As we arrived, we saw clay carvings of an open hand on top of the various buildings and entryways, symbolizing peace to all who enter.
Kidane Meret was the most beautifully painted out of all of the monasteries we saw that day. At Beta Maryam also on the peninsula, we walked through the religious school as the adolescent students were working on memorizing the Bible in Ge'ez and writing the Bible that they have memorized. Although not nearly as elaborate, this church had similar iconography as the one before.
Although lots of the art started to blend together there were two things that set these paintings apart from others. Lots of the people in these churches were painted with afros (the only even rough sign of any reference about the race of the people depicted on the artwork that we saw). The other feature was the obvious significance that water played. Out of all of the stories that were depicted from the Bible and Ethiopia's religious history, ones that pertained to water took the forefront. In layering this imagery on top of the very local realities of living in this environment the symbolism was deepened and made more real. This fact was seen most literally and directly by the scenes from local life--farming, fishing, cooking, etc.--that lined many of the decorated door frames (with St. George, Mary, St. Michael, and St. Raphael who allegedly rescued an Egyptian church from a whale thrashing on a beach). The most explicit painting was of Mary who was being attacked by a sea beast as she protected the young Jesus (Ethiopian has many stories about Jesus and Mary during their flight to Egypt).
Other images included Jesus walking on water, St. Michael slaying the dragon that the former pagans of the area worshipped, and, as expected, the usual congregation of Ethiopian saints.
The last monastery that I went to was the Kebran Gabriel. No women are allowed to even step foot on the island. After the short walk up the hill, every sign pointed to the sacredness that was preserved around the monastery. The courtyard opened up through the dense trees where the church stood in the middle. Seconds after arriving in the courtyard one of the monks rung the bell for mid-day prayer so I was only allowed to sneak a glimpse inside the church with its sparse and seemingly ancient paintings and 12 columns (a very Axsumite design that was very unique to all the churches in this area). Before they began prayer, one of the monks quickly showed us the museum. "Museum" is an understatement. It was a 5x7 ft room with seemingly makeshift shelves that held these ancient relics and artifacts.
A few manuscripts that were over 500-years-old were in glass covering their shelves, not actually sealing out any of the elements. Although the monk showed us their most special items in the collection, we could look (and touch) the other pieces. The highlights were a cross from the 14th century showing the stations of the cross, a 70 kg manuscript (made out of the choice hide of 162 goats) with at least 30 pages of illuminated paintings of Jesus' ministry from each of the four Gospels (including pictures of the evangelist themselves writing each gospel), and processional crosses from Axsum, Lalibela, and Gonder. After my first picture, my camera died. To extend the metaphor of the sacredness of this place (and hopefully not to over-dramatize it), it was as if Moses was only being allowed to see God at the burning bush once he had
removed his shoes (or any Ethiopian still practice before entering the church). Taking pictures would have failed to truly captured how special of a place it was so it did not happen at all.
After a couple more relaxing days in Bahir Dar, we flew back to Addis before flying back to Dubai. Now that I finished this mild behemoth I'll be working on writing more about life here fore our next trip to Jordan in a couple of weeks.
